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Thursday, November 18, 2010

A12 COLLAR ALTERATIONS II

Now we are going to cut out the collar pattern. I have a little fabric left in the fatest part of my sleeve. I am going to place the pattern here on the fold and cut two.
If there is a seam in your sleeve, and there is in mine, you will want to place your pattern on the fold without a seam. You don't want a seam mid-way through the collar. Or maybe you do. It might be sexy. I am not going to do that. I am going to place my pattern on the edge without the seam. (NOTE: Do not place your pattern on the seam edge. The edge pictured in the above picture.)
I am not going to mess with the full length of this pattern because I will have fold it in half. I would perfer to just cut the pattern in half. Gasp. No, you will be fine. Cut along the line marked "Center Back".
We added a little extra in the collar when we angled it a different direction. (See MARKING OUR SHIRT.) We also added a little extra when trimmed off the inner edge of our collar (See COLLAR ALTERATIONS) Therefore we will have to add a little bit of length. I calculated the additional length. We will need another 3". Since the pattern will be cut on the fold that will only be an extra 1 1/2". (Note: Be sure to line the sleeve edge up with the straight of the ruler and then line the ruler up with the straight of the "Back Center" line of the collar.) Pin the pattern piece down and mark the extra 1 1/2" then you are ready to cut.
Cut the piece out.Then use the piece you cut as a pattern to cut your second collar piece. This will be easier than remeasuring. If you have room you can use the same sleeve, if not you can use the other one. (Note: Again, make sure you cut on the fold without the seam. And, make sure your collar "Center Back" is lined up perfectly with the fold.)Pin and cut.
Your two collar pieces are cut. (Wait, there is more.)

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